From the museum, walk back down Clay toward Grant. Just past Stockton, Waverly Place opens on your left: two blocks known as the “Street of Painted Balconies.” The colorful facades hide a rough past. Tong wars, brothels, and gambling dens filled this alley through the late 1800s. A violent tong battle left four dead here in 1879.
Halfway down the alley, look for 125 Waverly Place. Climb three flights of narrow stairs to the Tin How Temple, built in 1852 and dedicated to Mazu, the Chinese goddess of the sea. It is the oldest Chinese temple in the United States. The altar survived the 1906 earthquake. Inside, sandalwood incense fills a small room packed with lanterns, offerings, and gold leaf. Entry is free but donations are appreciated. No photography allowed. Hours are short and shift often, generally midday; check before you climb.