San Francisco takes baking seriously, and the proof is that half the places on this list have a line before 9 a.m. Here’s where I send people, what to order, and when to show up.
Arsicault Bakery
The Richmond. Bon Appétit named it the Best New Bakery in America, and the croissant is the reason: laminated in-house, baked through the morning, sold until they run out. Go before 10 a.m. on weekends. Plain croissant first; the almond version if you want something closer to dessert.
Tartine Bakery
Guerrero and 18th in the Mission, open since 2002. The founders won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef. The morning bun (cinnamon, orange zest, sugar) is the pastry to order, and the country loaf shaped modern American sourdough baking. The corner line is part of the experience; mornings before 9 are shortest.
b. patisserie
Pacific Heights. Belinda Leong’s pastry case, with a James Beard Outstanding Baker award behind it. The kouign amann (caramelized, laminated Breton pastry) is the house signature and the thing to try first.
Liguria Bakery
Across from Washington Square in North Beach. Open since 1911 and they make exactly one thing: focaccia, cut with scissors and wrapped in butcher paper. Cash, mornings only; when the focaccia is gone, they close for the day. The rosemary and the plain are the classics.
Jane the Bakery
Geary Boulevard. A small operation that grows its own grain for its breads. Solid croissants and sandwiches without the destination lines of the Mission spots.
Butter & Crumble
North Beach. A small shop with a following that outgrew the space; expect a wait on weekends. Go on a weekday if you can.
Bob’s Donuts
Polk Street, open 24 hours, run by the same family since 1977. Everything is made from scratch daily and nothing sits more than eight hours. The apple fritter is the order, and the shop is one of the few places in the city where 2 a.m. is a reasonable time to buy pastry.
Planning a Route
Liguria and Butter & Crumble are both in North Beach, a five-minute walk apart, which makes that the easiest two-stop morning. Arsicault pairs with a Golden Gate Park day. Tartine sits two blocks from Dolores Park: buy the morning bun, eat it on the hill.